Devotees of Istanbul’s restaurant scene will be familiar with Esra’s considerable talents already. The wood-fired oven at Auf (just one of a mini empire of buzzing hot spots) was the stuff of legend, producing loaf after loaf of piping hot, pillowy pide worth queuing round the block for... Now Esra’s back in London, where her love affair with food began sixteen years ago, putting the building blocks in place for the launch of Zahter (‘lemon thyme’). Offering a taste of contemporary Turkish cooking with a strong focus on seasonal produce, it’s the restaurant she’s always wanted to open. As well as that pide, Esra’s week-long Carousel preview is all about the fiery walnut muhammara, super creamy hummus, crispy paçanga of pastırma, mozzarella and yoghurt, minty courgette fritters and mussels stuffed with pine nuts, raisins and dill. And those are just the mezze... Istanbul’s loss is London’s gain. We’re in for a serious treat.